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Changing Engine Mounts on 740/940
Buy the Correct Mounts. Note that earlier 740s came with solid mounts shown at the right, especially on turbos and manual transmission cars. Later cars have the hydraulic mounts pictured below. Buy the correct mount.<img src="
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" alt="Solid Engine Mount" hspace="8" width="110" height="83" align="right" />
Raising the Engine: [Tip: Bill Aileo ] Some folks carefully jack up the engine from below the short distance necessary (after making sure at least one side of the old ones is not connected. I prefer to use a 2x6 cut to fit snuggly over the engine compartment on top of the strut mounting area. [See Dick Riess' lift design in Special Tools.] The 2x6 is positioned like a joist and a hole for a piece of threaded rod is drilled near the center to line up with the lifting hook on the front of the engine. Put a piece of threaded rod about 12-18" long in place through the hole. Figure out a way to attached one end of the rod to the lifting hook and slip a large washer and nut on the other end. Then simply tighten the nut to raise the engine. Replacing the mounts is then easy. <img src="
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" alt="Hydraulic Engine Mount" hspace="8" width="188" height="225" align="right" /> [Another Tip:] Instead of raising the engine by using a board between the jack and oil pan , I cut an angle at the end of a 2x6 and raised the engine at the front of the oil pan. The angled part of the 2x6 was pressed against the oil pan bolts at the front of the engine, the other end was square against the floor jack. I didn't want to risk damaging the oil pan. I also had to use a small hydraulic jack to help the engine raise straight. It worked fine and with new mounts my brick is running smoother now than it has in 10 years.
How to Change the Mounts: [Procedures from Christopher Ascoli/Joshua Block] Using the jack and wood block method should be sufficient for lifting the engine to remove the mounts. I did this procedure just a month ago and it worked just fine. My mounts were the hydraulic mounts. As for tips, I have only two. First and foremost, make sure you buy VOLVO or comparable HYDRAULIC mounts. Second, I remember not being able to reach all of the bolts from above which tie down the mounting bracket (that the motor mount sits on ) to the car's frame. Chilton's made it sound like all you had to do was unbolt the top and bottom of the mount and yank it out. If you haven't done this before, you must: Before you jack up the engine, unscrew the top bolt on each motor mount. I also removed the bracket with each mount due to clearance. The bottom nut on right side mount by the turbo was completely inaccessible with the bracket attached to the crossarm. I took the left bracket off because of clearance. If the mounts are OEM the nuts are on rather tight.
Driver's side
- Remove the top nut on the mount. If this is seized (as it often is), use a u-joint, a few extensions, a big breaker bar, and a six-point socket to get your hands and knuckles up above the engine and then pull on it. It will come off, as long as you haven't rounded the corners from letting your wrench slip off the nut. In bad cases, unbolt the mount bracket from the block and from the crossmember to remove the assembly, mount it in a vise and get the breaker bar or air wrench on it.
- Raise the engine (the bracket that sits on the mount does not have to be raised all the way so it clears the top of the bolt; you will remove the entire lower bracket with the mount so you have some play)
- I think you can get to 2 of the 3 bolts of the bracket that the mount sits on, the last you'll have to get at from underneath the car
- Once all 3 bolts have been removed, lift the mount out with the bottom bracket still attached and you'll have access to the bottom nut that connects the mount to the bottom bracket.
- If you find that there still isn't enough room to remove the mount, you can remove the engine top mount bracket (or remove 2 of the 3 bolts and swing it out of the way) and then extract the mount.
- Attach the new mount to the bracket using anti-seize compound on the bolts. Install the bracket and bolt it in.
- Let the engine down making sure it sits on the mount correctly. DO NOT ATTACH THE TOP NUT UNTIL YOU HAVE BOTH MOUNTS INSTALLED!
Passenger side
- Same as the driver's except you don't want to mess with the upper bracket. It connects WAY too many things to be screwing around with it. I didn't have touch the top bracket at all. This side was definitely easier. If you're struggling with access to the passenger side, removing the pre-heater hose and the heater assembly from the manifold makes things so much easier (at least, on a n/a car). You may have to reach 2 out of the 3 bolts from underneath on this side. The job is not technologically challenging, but depending on when the mounts were last changed, you could be in for some blood and sweat. Just be careful not to strip the lower bracket bolts when removing (for obvious reasons), and some anti-seize compound on them when they go back in could make the next mount change a lot easier on you or the following owner. Good luck!
- Put the top nuts on both mounts. Make sure everything is tightly attached.
Other Ideas to Help the Work: [Tip from Don Foster] When I do mounts, I offset the jack to favor the right side, and do the right mount. Then offset it to favor the left side, and do the left mount. In this way you avoid tugging on a good mount as you lift the motor. As you lower the engine onto the new mounts, you may need to persuade the stud into the bracket. Because of its angle, it doesn't naturally engage with the hole. [Tip from David Steffy] You don't say whether you have a turbo. Our '88 is, so the left mount was easy and the right was a very tight spot. I took the brackets off with the mount in both cases, but didn't really need to for the left mount--just take off the upper nut and jack away. On the right one, I had to move the oil lines to get access to the bolts. Messy on my old gunky engine, a bit slow, but not a bad job overall. Without the turbo it's probably a lot better. [Accessing the Mounting Nuts: Dick Riess] In my experience it is necessary to take off the belly pan to get at those front nuts on the drivers side. You also will have better access to the bolts, but a universal joint on your socket will help. I have had to attack from the front of the mount by the power steering rack and also from the rear. On the pass side, for me it helps to take off the oil filter to get at things and you may as well take off top and bottom mount brackets. Believe one of the bottom is bolted through the crossmember and you have to unbold from under the car. Jacking up your engine a little at a time helps access. When reassembling, tighten the mount to the bottom bracket, but leave the top loose so you can move it around for alignment to the block.
Preventive Maintenance Tips: [Tip from Ed Kucinski] Just a reminder, when changing oil, keep the oil off the rubber motor mounts. Especially when changing the oil filter, some tends to get down there. Wipe it clean. Its the oil that deteriorates the rubber and speeds failure.
General Vibration Diagnosis: See this interesting site for tips on diagnosis of internal engine vibrations: <a href="
www.vibratesoftware.com/html_help/html/D...ne_Speed_Related.htm
">
www.vibratesoftware.com/html_help/html/D...ne_Speed_Related.htm
