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Hello there mates,
I've been searching your forum to gather more info about the 340, well... translating everything... i'd like to ask some things that you might help me.
Info: Volvo 340 1987 B14.4E on LPG, Sedan. Used regularity for Drift.
1) Handbrake: It doesn't work for shit. I have this car since september and got the handbrake cable adjusted (up the gearbox) but it barely doesn't apply force to it. Brake shoes? Drums worn?
2) Engine shaking a lot: Are the OEM mounts any good? I want to change mine (engine + bellhousing) but i'm affraid that the original rubber ones aren't good enough. How can i reinforce mine? I've heard some people use window sealant and have good results. Maybe worth a try???
3) Everyone's have this: Propshaft having a bad time.. When stopped, in neutral, with the pedal off the clutch, the car vibrates like hell !! like it will fell apart, and theres also that noise from the shaft... I've read a lot of threads about this issue, but never found any idea to reinforce the the prop itself. The problem is the rubber falling apart right? * theres also a lot of backlash.
4) Gears hard to engage, first and second: What is this? Lack of oil in the gearbox?
5) Strange feel from the back of the exhaust: If i'm at the rear, i hear the car like doing very small and weak backfiring... Like a Misfire.. Or maybe it is really a misfire. If i put my hand there, i feel the pressure everytime it " backfires ". What can cause this?
6) Valve noise, (tac tac tac): I've tuned the valves correctly, 0.15 and 0.20 and they still do noise.
7) Choke not working: My choke light is always on, and the last time i took a few pieces of to maintenaince, i was trying to find what was wrong with the choke, so i messed up with the choke cable in the carb, theres a screw and a nut there.. how can i adjust it properly?

9) As i'm running LPG, do the plugs need to be different or the gap adjusted? I've bought them and just plugged

I guess i'm not forgeting anything about issues. Now some tweaks.
10) I want to make a ON/OFF Switch onboard to the electric fan. How can i?
11) I want camber! According to my knowledge, i need to lenght the lower arm (2, 3cm?) right? Do i need to mess with something else or it's just enough to increase lower arm lengh? Will the toe arm fit without problem or needs work?
12) Stiff in rear: Doubling the leaf spring will do something? Soon i will buy some landrover shocks.
Car is still standart and i want to do the major repairs before any tuning.
Notice that LOWCOST is priority... really...
Waiting for some help.
Cheers,
R?ben :yummie:
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- Floris Schropp
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If your repairman has troubles to get parts for your car, we could send you some. Butt of course this will be more expensive than searching local...
I think that you also have to set some priorities. That will be the engine and drive train. Your fan-switch, rear suspension upgrade, and camber are things that will cost you money but won't be necessary.
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Ruben340;214345 schreef : Info: Volvo 340 1987 B14.4E on LPG, Sedan. Used regularity for Drift.
Why LPG for drifting? if your using the car for drifting get rid of the LPG installation too much weight.
Ruben340;214345 schreef : 1) Handbrake: It doesn't work for shit. I have this car since september and got the handbrake cable adjusted (up the gearbox) but it barely doesn't apply force to it. Brake shoes? Drums worn?
disassemble and check
Ruben340;214345 schreef : 2) Engine shaking a lot: Are the OEM mounts any good?
Engine shaking has nothing to do with the OEM mounts check valve lash, ignition timing, vacuum system
Ruben340;214345 schreef : I want to change mine (engine + bellhousing) but i'm affraid that the original rubber ones aren't good enough.
they are
Ruben340;214345 schreef : How can i reinforce mine?
not possible
Ruben340;214345 schreef : I've heard some people use window sealant and have good results. Maybe worth a try???
Bullshit, don't even try won't work
Ruben340;214345 schreef : 3) Everyone's have this: Propshaft having a bad time.. When stopped, in neutral, with the pedal off the clutch, the car vibrates like hell !! like it will fell apart, and theres also that noise from the shaft...
disassemble and check balance or replace with new one
Ruben340;214345 schreef : I've read a lot of threads about this issue, but never found any idea to reinforce the the prop itself.
prop shaft can not be reinforced [aluminum]
Ruben340;214345 schreef : The problem is the rubber falling apart right? * theres also a lot of backlash.
disassemble and check the rubber for wear & tear or replace with new one
Ruben340;214345 schreef : 4) Gears hard to engage, first and second: What is this? Lack of oil in the gearbox?
unscrew drain/fill plugs and check oil level
Ruben340;214345 schreef : 5) Strange feel from the back of the exhaust: If i'm at the rear, i hear the car like doing very small and weak backfiring... Like a Misfire.. Or maybe it is really a misfire. If i put my hand there, i feel the pressure everytime it " backfires ". What can cause this?
check valve lash, ignition timing, vacuum system
Ruben340;214345 schreef : 6) Valve noise, (tac tac tac): I've tuned the valves correctly, 0.15 and 0.20 and they still do noise.
check valve lash, 0.15 and 0.20 with a cold engine
Ruben340;214345 schreef : 7) Choke not working: My choke light is always on,
switch in choke knob is either broken or shorted replace with new one
Ruben340;214345 schreef : and the last time i took a few pieces of to maintenaince, i was trying to find what was wrong with the choke, so i messed up with the choke cable in the carb, theres a screw and a nut there.. how can i adjust it properly?
loosen choke cable at carb, push choke knob on dashboard completely in, open choke valve on carb completely, fasten choke cable with bolt and nut.
Ruben340;214345 schreef :
How to find air leaks? I have some leak from the exhaust manifold, but i can't know if it's the gasket itself or it's just loose somewhere.
spray carb foot and intake manifold with brake cleanser while engine is running.
leaking from exhaust manifold try tightening manifold bolts otherwise replace gasket with new one.
QUOTE=Ruben340;214345]
9) As i'm running LPG, do the plugs need to be different or the gap adjusted? I've bought them and just plugged

Plugs have the same gap on gasoline/petrol as with LPG.
Ruben340;214345 schreef : I guess i'm not forgeting anything about issues. Now some tweaks.
10) I want to make a ON/OFF Switch onboard to the electric fan. How can i?
connect a switch parallel over the thermo switch that powers the electric fan
Ruben340;214345 schreef : 11) I want camber! According to my knowledge, i need to lenght the lower arm (2, 3cm?) right? Do i need to mess with something else or it's just enough to increase lower arm lengh? Will the toe arm fit without problem or needs work?
According to my knowledge you don't have any knowledge of what you're doing, so leave as is.
Ruben340;214345 schreef : 12) Stiff in rear: Doubling the leaf spring will do something? Soon i will buy some landrover shocks.
Doubling the leaf spring will stiffen the car even more, Landrover shocks will not fit
Ruben340;214345 schreef : Car is still standart and i want to do the major repairs before any tuning.
Notice that LOWCOST is priority... really...
Keep the car stock [=standard] there is nothing as LOWCOST maintenance, a car costs money and repairs are expensive if you can't do them by your self
powerflux;214346 schreef : waarom helpen? een auto zo goedkoop mogelijk naar de tering helpen lijkt prima te lukken?
LPG als brandstof om te driften? :lol: :crazy2:
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Extending the front subframe will give more camber, but please leave this to a mechanic as it's dangerous if it goes wrong/breaks.
As for leaks in the intake: brake cleaner will give instant result as the engine starts revving when you spring it on an air leak.
For your engine it sounds like it needs a lot of proper maintenance. Valve timing, ignition timing, vacuum, ignition parts, carb tuneup etc.
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First, anyone have a problem with using lpg for drifting? Want to know why? Gasoline 95 - 1.69?, LPG - 0.76?, Thats why

Mr "2 Fast 4 U" - The things you say that are impossible or won't work, they actually will do, because anything is possible, it just may require more work or more study about that.
Valves clearances are 0.15, 0.20 ...
Yes, there is lowcost maintenaince, i just could lead my car to a Volvo's official department, and pay a fortune for all the repair, but why? It's pointless and the money is not growing from the trees.
I never said i'll do it all by myself at home, i just want to get things cleared in my mind and lead it to the correct way....
Thanks for the answers. Waiting for some more ideas.
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- Anjo van den Akker
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Ruben340;214365 schreef : Yes, there is lowcost maintenaince, i just could lead my car to a Volvo's official department, and pay a fortune for all the repair, but why? It's pointless and the money is not growing from the trees.
I never said i'll do it all by myself at home, i just want to get things cleared in my mind and lead it to the correct way....
Nobody sad that you have to pick an official Volvo shop, a good maintenance shop of all kinds also will be good (or maybe even better). But it's very difficult to troubleshoot your car with a lot of problems by yourself, if you don't have the know how... I have that problem by myself too.
Do you already have a Haynes workshop manual about the Volvo 340? These are very handy if you want to repair you car as a layman.
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it wouldn't matter if it's a LPi conversion; as you can tune that to a level where you don't lose engine power. if it's a more common carburator based LPG conversion then you lose power on top end and that's where you spend most of the time with drifting. from the 70bhp your engine has in good condition, you don't want any of those lost even due to LPG..Ruben340;214365 schreef : First, anyone have a problem with using lpg for drifting? Want to know why? Gasoline 95 - 1.69?, LPG - 0.76?, Thats why
from personal experience, you'll get bored of the stock engine quite soon. it's fun for throwing it around a roundabout every now and then but that's pretty much all there is to it. even with a car that has the benefits of a proper suspension and welded diff it was nearly impossible to link 2 corners in a row on dry tarmac, with my turbo 340 that's a whole different story.
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General Custom;214370 schreef : Nobody sad that you have to pick an official Volvo shop, a good maintenance shop of all kinds also will be good (or maybe even better). But it's very difficult to troubleshoot your car with a lot of problems by yourself, if you don't have the know how... I have that problem by myself too.
Do you already have a Haynes workshop manual about the Volvo 340? These are very handy if you want to repair you car as a layman.
Hi.
Well, since it is my first car, i want to learn everything, how to maintain properly this volvo, so in future i will be able to make more work at home.
Yea i have a Haynes

AvdAkker;214372 schreef : it wouldn't matter if it's a LPi conversion; as you can tune that to a level where you don't lose engine power. if it's a more common carburator based LPG conversion then you lose power on top end and that's where you spend most of the time with drifting. from the 70bhp your engine has in good condition, you don't want any of those lost even due to LPG..
from personal experience, you'll get bored of the stock engine quite soon. it's fun for throwing it around a roundabout every now and then but that's pretty much all there is to it. even with a car that has the benefits of a proper suspension and welded diff it was nearly impossible to link 2 corners in a row on dry tarmac, with my turbo 340 that's a whole different story.
Hum, but in a Carb based LPG conversion, you can also tune the flow and increase the amount of gas that goes in there, in order to give you a richer mixture, and a bit more power.
Of course my drift is not in dry tarmac, because the car is fully standart. I've done a couple of times but nothing more than 1 corner (yea a bunch of people will say that is a skid ,and not a drift).
But on wet, the case is different. I don't do only roundabouts or one corner, i usually use it on touge, and track, and have no problem linking 3 or 4 corners without spinning or loosing the drift, even with this boat suspesion and open dif.
The most important is that the joy of what i'm doing is there

Of course i would prefer already welded it, but since my propshaft is not good at all, i won't do it for now.
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